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		<title>Questions On Tecumseh / Kirby Engines</title>
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		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2026 15:28:26 UTC</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Questions On Tecumseh / Kirby Engines</title>
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			<title>Kirby tecumseh H25 identification..</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122262.html#Post122262</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by maolizi</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You’re on the right track thinking it’s a Tecumseh H25/HK25 style engine, as those Kirby-built units were commonly fitted to Scott Bonnar 33s in the 60s–70s, but without the exact model/spec number (usually stamped on the blower housing or a tag) it’s hard to guarantee exact part matches because there were multiple variations with different crank sizes, seals, and internals ; the good news is most service parts like gasket kits, seals, rings, and even <a href="https://en.tradebearings.com"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank">TBS bearings</a> are still available or can be matched through generic suppliers, and items like the breather tube can still be sourced aftermarket, but for critical parts like the con rod or piston/rings you really want to confirm bore size and spec before ordering, as H25 variants differ slightly, so your best approach is to identify it visually against a parts manual or measure key components, then cross-reference—because with these engines, bearings and seals are easy, but getting the wrong internal parts can cause more trouble than it’s worth.</div></div>And without the exact model and spec numbers it’s important to be cautious because there were several variations with different crank sizes, seals, and internal components; while common service parts like gasket kits, seals, rings, and <a href="https://www.tradebearings.com/roller-bearings/needle-roller-bearings-catalogue.html"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank">needle roller bearings</a> are usually easy to source or match through generic suppliers, critical items like the con rod and piston need to be confirmed by measuring bore size and checking specs against a parts manual, since using incorrect components can lead to fitment issues or premature wear, so proper identification and cross-referencing is the safest approach.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 02:48:33 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maolizi</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122262.html#Post122262</guid>
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			<title>Kirby HK30 Governor oil leak</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121945.html#Post121945</link>
			<description><![CDATA[G'day Magilla,<br><br>The in and out movement is normal but the arm should not have sideways slop.<br><br>Check Crankcase Oil Level<br><br>Too much oil will push oil out of the weakest point—including the governor shaft.<br><br>Drain down to the correct level if overfilled.<br><br><br>Remove the breather assembly.<br><br>Clean the reed/flap or disc thoroughly with petrol/brake cleaner.<br><br>Make sure the breather only lets air OUT, not IN.<br><br>Reinstall.<br><br>If the breather sticks even slightly, crankcase pressure blows oil out the governor arm hole.<br><br>This alone fixes about 50% of “leaking governor arm” cases.<br><br>It just depends on what type of governor arm you are working with and without it apart you can't tell.<br><br><br><br>✅ 1. Bushing-Only Design (NO SEAL)<br><br>In some engines the governor shaft simply passes through a close-fitting bronze bushing in the crankcase.<br>Oil control relies on:<br><br>Tight clearance between shaft &amp; bushing<br><br>Crankcase pressure being low<br><br>A light smear of oil acting as a film seal<br><br>When these wear, they always start leaking.<br><br>If yours has no visible rubber seal, this is likely the case.<br><br>👉 Fix:<br><br>Replace the governor shaft (if worn/grooved at the exit point)<br><br>Ream or replace the crankcase bushing<br><br>OR install an external retro-seal (see option 3 below)<br><br>This is the hardest and least common repair because it requires engine disassembly.<br><br>✅ 2. Grooved Shaft + O-Ring Design<br><br>Some models have:<br><br>A machined groove on the governor shaft<br><br>A small O-ring that sits in the crankcase housing right where the shaft exits<br><br>This O-ring acts as the seal.<br><br>Signs:<br><br>You see a thin groove or step machined on the shaft<br><br>The hole in the crankcase looks “counterbored” to fit an O-ring<br><br>No external rubber seal pressed in<br><br>👉 Fix:<br><br>Replace the O-ring with:<br><br>Fuel- and oil-resistant Viton O-ring<br><br>Correct size (often 1/4″ ID × 3/8″ OD × 1/16″ CS or metric equivalent depending on model)<br><br>If the groove is worn or shaft polished:<br><br>Replace the shaft<br><br>Or move to an oversized O-ring if slop is tiny (not ideal, but works temporarily)<br><br>✅ 3. Retrofitting a Seal (VERY common field fix)<br><br>If the original design had no seal or the bushing is worn, many mower techs do this:<br><br>Remove governor arm<br><br>Drill/clean the opening slightly<br><br>Press in a tiny rubber lip seal (like used on Briggs models—often 3/8&quot; OD)<br><br>Reinstall arm and clip<br><br>This works surprisingly well if there is enough crankcase material around the shaft exit.<br><br>I can help you choose the correct dimensions if you want to measure the shaft.<br><br>⚠️ Also check for crankcase pressure<br><br>Even a perfect shaft-seal design will leak if pressure is high.<br><br>Check:<br><br>Breather valve working<br><br>No blocked breather hose<br><br>No overfilled oil<br><br>No stuck rings / blow-by<br><br>Install a retrofit lip seal around the governor shaft (the common repair techs do)<br><br>Because many old engines leak from this exact spot, mower mechanics often fit a small external oil seal into the crankcase wall.<br><br>How it’s done:<br><br>Remove governor arm and clean the area.<br><br>Measure the governor shaft with calipers <br><br>Lightly counterbore the crankcase hole with a drill or end mill to match a small seal OD.<br><br>Press a mini rubber lip seal into the hole (e.g.,<br>Shaft 6 mm → seal 6 × 12 × 4 mm,<br>**Shaft 1/4″ → seal 1/4″ × 1/2″ × 3/16″).<br><br>Reinstall arm and linkage.<br><br>✔ Works extremely well<br>✔ No need to open the engine<br>✔ Cheap<br>❌ Requires careful drilling and alignment<br>❌ Must not drill too deep into crankcase<br><br><br><br><br><br>This is the most practical fix for home and shop use.<br><br>3️⃣ Field-expedient fix: install an external O-ring in a shallow recess<br><br>If you don’t want to machine for a seal, you can:<br><br>Lightly countersink the crankcase hole<br><br>Fit a tight O-ring that the governor arm presses against<br><br>Apply a non-hardening sealant (Yamabond / Dirko)<br><br>It’s better than nothing, but not ideal.<br><br>Cheers<br>Max.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2025 08:34:37 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121945.html#Post121945</guid>
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			<title>goldnomads</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121722.html#Post121722</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Rob,<br>             I used a decomp off a full crank Victa but I also had to make an extension piece as well so I could get out far enough to clear the rocker cover, can't remember exactly how I did it . I guess if you made the extension piece long enough you could use a Powertorque decomp valve. I it one of those things you have to suck and see but it can be done. The one I did was on a Briggs OHV but the Tecumesh would be similar I think. Wherein Vic is Raywood, I haven't looked it up? Ok looked it up it is the otherside of Bendigo so that is going to make it difficult<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 25 Aug 2025 05:44:56 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>NormK</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121722.html#Post121722</guid>
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			<title>Hk25 can’t start</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121447.html#Post121447</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Bought one off eBay. <br><br>Roughly $20. <br><br>To test it I used a multimeter. There are plenty of videos online to find out to test it and ensure it can be used.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 04 May 2025 10:10:59 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>Darth Imperial</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121447.html#Post121447</guid>
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			<title>SB45 Kirby hunting</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121272.html#Post121272</link>
			<description><![CDATA[It does sound like a carby that is running too rich or too lean remery, you haven't mentioned if the main jet and emulsion tube were removed for cleaning ,sometimes I drain the fuel from the tank and run the motor by spraying fuel into the carby or use starter fluid and if the motor revs out fine and runs fine you know it's a carby problem ,l would also check there isn't a vacuum leak ,like a loose intake manifold or an old damaged gasket on the intake side, l usually tighten the head bolts on old motors as they can come loose when they haven't been checked for decades.<br><br>Cheers <br>Max.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Apr 2025 22:24:04 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121272.html#Post121272</guid>
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			<title>Paint Colour Kirby HK25 Orange</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120155.html#Post120155</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Legend Max. I did read that but wasn't sure being &quot;Chevrolet&quot;<br><br>Thanks<br>Steve<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Dec 2024 09:19:24 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>WillyG</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120155.html#Post120155</guid>
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			<title>Kirby Tecumseh Colours</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119660.html#Post119660</link>
			<description><![CDATA[G'day Kynan,<br><br>I think it would depend on year ,model ,2 or 4 stroke ,Vertical or horizontal shaft.<br><br>I've seen Horizontal shaft  Kirby Tecumseh motors that are black ,in USA Tecumseh and Lauson had black motors.<br><br>Here I mostly see Kirby motors red ,orange ,white  green and crankcases that are not painted.<br><br>Cheers<br>Max..<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 04 Aug 2024 02:14:14 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119660.html#Post119660</guid>
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			<title>HK25 recoil Spring</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/113956.html#Post113956</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Max<br>Thanks for getting back, I was heating it but obviously not enough as that video made it look real simple! Will give it another go with a calm head now that I know it can be done. Appreciate the help mate<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 30 Jan 2022 05:20:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>antstips</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/113956.html#Post113956</guid>
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			<title>Is It Worth It -Tecumseh Concept On A Victa?</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/113929.html#Post113929</link>
			<description><![CDATA[probably the valve cover plate.....<br>speedy<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jan 2022 19:30:03 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>speedy</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/113929.html#Post113929</guid>
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			<title>Ignition module on Kirby Tecumseh</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112987.html#Post112987</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by twostroker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi Mowerfreak<br>T the original colour. I stumbled upon some cheap spray paints from China at my local $2 shop. I wasn’t expecting too much, but amazingly, they have been BY NUt to FAR the best paints I have used,and that’s a lot. Deep rich colours, almost impossible to get runs, it comes out nice and thick, just beautiful. Beats the well known brands by a country mile. the same<br>The blue is not original- it was so rusty, I really don’t recall the original as it was not prominent.<br>I wish the Camry was a V6. It’s a 2.2 litre 4. Goes ok, but not like a 6 cyl..</div></div>Wish I could check those paints out. The range of ready bought spray paint colours and their quality in this country are pathetic. Rustoleum have been buying out smaller spray paint manufacturers here and offer a paltry amount of colours of their own product range on the Australian market. Even Bunnings New Zealand has a particular yellow in their range I wanted (golden sunset) that's available in the states, but not here.<br>I glimpsed loads of Rustoleum shades in a YouTube video of a Walmart you don't see here.<br><br>Regards the Camry, the V6 is a great engine (I drove someone's Avalon once), but you do pay at the pump for that performance whereas the four gets the job done reliably and comfortably with less fuel. I appreciate engines like that more now.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 03 Oct 2021 05:26:52 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>Mowerfreak</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112987.html#Post112987</guid>
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