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		<title>Four Stroke Lawn Mower Frames </title>
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		<description>Recent Posts</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2026 15:25:32 UTC</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Four Stroke Lawn Mower Frames </title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm</link>
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			<title>Rover Turbothrust Self Propelled</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122432.html#Post122432</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Thanks again Bruce, much appreciated.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 22 Jun 2026 05:03:25 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>Hawkeye</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122432.html#Post122432</guid>
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			<title>Where to get wheel bearing seals?</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122391.html#Post122391</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted by monala</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, those are generally called radial shaft seals or sometimes wheel dust seals, and most bearing supply shops can usually match them if you bring the old one in and measure the ID, OD, and width accurately with calipers. A lot of mower manufacturers never sold them separately because they were considered part of the wheel assembly, which is why they can be frustrating to source individually. Since the Victa and Rover/MTD versions differ slightly in OD and thickness, your best bet may actually be an industrial seal supplier rather than mower parts dealers, because they can often cross-match generic seals that fit the axle and bearings correctly without needing to grind them down.</div></div>Radial shaft seals and wheel dust seals are often easier to source through an <a href="https://www.tradebearings.com/"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank">tbs industrial bearings</a> and seals supplier than through mower dealers, especially for older Rover, MTD, and Victa models where the original parts were bundled with complete wheel assemblies. If you can measure the axle size, outer diameter, and thickness accurately, most <a href="https://en.tradebearings.com/clist_112.html"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Railway bearing</a> shops can usually match a generic seal that fits properly without needing to modify or grind it down.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2026 02:24:06 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>monala</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122391.html#Post122391</guid>
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			<title>Sanli height adjustment knob</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122379.html#Post122379</link>
			<description><![CDATA[I ended up getting a cheap aluminium gearshift lever to replace the height adjustment stick. It looks great and is a lot stronger than the old plastic one. I will have to give Temu a go!<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 20 May 2026 01:38:21 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>vint_mow</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122379.html#Post122379</guid>
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			<title>Gardenline 21&quot; Self Propelled Mower @ Aldi.</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122226.html#Post122226</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Here's a photo of the rusted deck. It appeared the previous owners had never bothered cleaning under (or over) the deck after mowing.<br><br>Did a couple of thousand square metres with it today, great mower. I reckon the quality is better than what Aldi sells these days.<br><br>BTW it starts very easily, it does have an electric starter but didn't come with a battery so just gets a pull on the rope. There's no choke lever or throttle lever, all completely automatic, no fuel petcock either. Had some long grass to tackle and there was not a hint of stalling.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2026 09:32:38 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>MowingManiac</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122226.html#Post122226</guid>
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			<title>Rover 80's/90's mower - how to remove suspension and catcher cover</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121994.html#Post121994</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi SuziRova,<br><br>There is a YouTube video showing  removal of front axle  , in the  video he uses long nose pliers to remove the clips but I<br>use a flat blade screw driver.<br><br><div class="video-container"><iframe frameborder="0" width="500" height="300" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lSpqAg75bqE?wmode=opaque" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br><br>The back axle (depends on Rover model) usually has two pop rivets that you drill out at the rear sides to remove a metal<br>bracket that holds the axle in.<br><br>The catcher cover also depends on model ,if there are no locking parts on the ends of the cover hinge rod you just use a hammer<br>and a small punch to hit the hinge rod out ,once it moves out a little you can use vice grips on that end to wiggle the hinge rod out<br>but this can slightly damage the hinge rod so you just file it before a refit.<br><br>Cheers<br>Max.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 01 Dec 2025 08:00:21 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121994.html#Post121994</guid>
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			<title>Morrison Rapier 710 Advice Please!!</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121867.html#Post121867</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Merediths,<br><br>I can give you a one size fits all type of order of removal  ,just take from the following what's applicable to your mower.<br><br>Typical removal sequence — do these in order<br><br>Remove the blade and arbor nut — leave no load on the spindle.<br><br>Remove exterior pulleys / belts / drive components that are on the spindle. If the spindle has a pulley or gear, there may be a keyway and a key — remove the key after loosening the pulley set screws.<br><br>Look for set screws or lock nuts at the flange — many machines use a collar or nut behind the flange. Rotate the spindle slowly by hand; you may find a small grub screw/allen screw that locks the flange. Remove any visible set screws.<br><br>Remove any snap rings (circlips) visible on the shaft or inside the housing. Use internal/external circlip pliers as appropriate. These often retain the flange or bearing spacer.<br><br>Inspect inside the housing for a bearing retainer plate / cross bolts — some housings have a small plate fastened with screws that hold the inner bearing race or retainer. Remove these screws.<br><br>Apply penetrating oil to the mating surface between the flange and spindle/housing and let it soak (30–60 minutes is typical).<br><br>Use a puller on the flange — attach a 3‑arm puller to the flange face or to the hub if there are threaded holes. Tighten the puller centre slowly. If the flange is stubborn, heat the flange (not the shaft) with a torch for a few minutes — expansion helps free it. Be careful with seals and paint.<br><br>If flange still won’t move: use a slide hammer pulled from the flange face or pull from any threaded flange bolt holes (with proper puller bolts). Alternatively, place soft‑faced drifts at several points and give short, firm blows to break the bond — avoid hammering the shaft directly.<br><br>Once flange comes off, remove spacers and record order — take photos or lay out parts in order.<br><br>Extract bearings from the shaft or housing:<br><br>If the bearing is on the shaft (press fit): press the bearing off the shaft using an arbor press or large socket bearing driver, pushing on the inner race only.<br><br>If the bearing is in the housing: press it out from the opposite side, pushing on the outer race only.<br><br>NEVER press on the wrong race (will damage bearing).<br><br>If stuck, heat the housing (not the bearing) slightly to loosen the fit or use a split bearing puller.<br><br>Inspect shaft and housing for scoring, pitting, runout. Replace/repair if damaged.<br><br>Fit new bearings:<br><br>Clean surfaces thoroughly.<br><br>Press bearings on by the race you’re supposed to press (inner race for press‑on shaft bearings; outer race when pressing into housing).<br><br>Use correct bearing heater or induction or a short, controlled press. Don’t overheat seals.<br><br>Reinstall spacers, seals, and any snap rings in original order.<br><br>Reinstall flange:<br><br>Clean the contact surfaces; consider using high strength retaining compound only if the manual specifies (do NOT guess).<br><br>Press flange back on, or reinstall with puller in reverse. Align any keys.<br><br>Torque any flange nuts/bolts to the manual spec (if you don’t have a spec, tighten to a firm stop and check axial play).<br><br>Check axial/preload (if applicable): some spindles require a certain preload or shim pack. If the unit uses shims, measure end‑float with a dial indicator and adjust with shims until in spec.<br><br>Reassemble pulleys/guards, test rotation by hand, then powered test at low speed. Listen for noise and check bearing temperature after a short run.<br><br>Common traps and tips specific to “housing assembly and flange won’t come off”<br><br>Hidden set screws: look under paint, behind seals, inside small recesses. Use a flashlight.<br><br>Snap rings inside the housing: sometimes they’re tucked behind a shoulder — remove them first or the flange won’t clear.<br><br>Loctite / thread locker: previous repairs may have used thread‑locker on retention nuts; heat and penetrating oil will help.<br><br>Corrosion/bonding: flange can corrode to the shaft — heat the flange (do not overheat bearings) and use a puller or slide hammer.<br><br>Don’t hit the shaft end hard — that can damage bearings/seals or cause the shaft to displace and damage the motor.<br><br>If the flange is a press fit on the bearing and you try to pull the bearing by the stator/housing, you’ll destroy parts — always support and push on the correct race.<br><br>If you get stuck <br><br>Are there threaded holes in the flange face? They often accept puller bolts or are where the blade guard attaches.<br><br>Is there an internal circlip under the outer housing seam? Remove housing cover and inspect inside.<br><br>Does the manual show any numbered retaining screws? If so, those must come out before the flange will move.<br><br>Reassembly checks &amp; run-in<br><br>After reassembly, run the spindle by hand to feel for smoothness.<br><br>Run at low speed under no load for 5–10 minutes. Check for unusual vibration, noise, or heat.<br><br>Re‑check end float and bearing preload after first run (some bearings seat slightly).<br><br>Cheers<br>Max.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 12 Oct 2025 08:35:55 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121867.html#Post121867</guid>
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			<title> Yard King Mower Manuals</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121791.html#Post121791</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Bruce,<br><br>Thanks for that, yeah I have that one. Cheers tho.<br><br>Muz<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 24 Sep 2025 04:02:02 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>Muzho68</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121791.html#Post121791</guid>
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			<title>Morrison rapier 710 wheels</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121600.html#Post121600</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Lucas92w<br><br>The tube is listed here <a href="https://www.outdoorking.com.au/ride-on-lawnmowers/rover-ride-on-mowers-and-spare-parts/rover-ride-on-frame-wheel-parts/tube-13-x-5.00-x-6-bent-valve-ptu1862" title="httpswwwoutdoorkingcomaurideonlawnmowersroverrideonmowersandsparepartsroverrideonframewheelpartstube13x500x6bentvalveptu1862" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.outdoorking.com.au/ride...<wbr>ts/tube-13-x-5.00-x-6-bent-valve-ptu1862</a><br><br>I take it If a tube is listed as &quot;13 x 5.00 x 6&quot;, it is designed to fit a tire that is also sized &quot;13 x 5.00 x 6&quot;.<br><br><br>13: This is the overall diameter of the tire when inflated, measured in inches.<br>5.00: This is the width of the tire across its tread, measured in inches.<br>6&quot;: This is the diameter of the rim (the metal wheel itself) that the tire mounts onto, measured in inches.<br><br><br>Cheers<br>Max.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Jun 2025 09:38:55 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121600.html#Post121600</guid>
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			<title>Rover paint colours through time?</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121501.html#Post121501</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Jethro raised this topic with me recently. Pinning down the many transitions in paint colour with Rover is not as clear cut as might seem to be the case. We are all familiar with the hammertone blue of the mid 1970s and the &quot;red Rovers&quot; of the 1980s through to today. But it looks like they must have switched back and forth with the paint colours in the early years. <br><br>I have seen late 1950s?-early 60s Rover 18s with the old style of handlebars, which had a plain blue base and red Villiers engine. Also a 1960s Rover Royal with Villiers engine that was painted hammertone blue with red engine. Oddly, I have a 1960s Rover 18 that was painted hammertone green! Why they switched to green for that one is a complete mystery to me. <br><br>It seems they used the industrial yellow almost exclusively on the 1960s Rover Rider (HD25) up until about late 1975 when they switched to hammertone blue and red on that as well. The HD25's in the 80s were painted red. It seems they were still selling these HD25's, or at least the parts, into the 2000s, as I came across a spare parts manual for them which is dated 2003. My understanding is the blue hammertone was (re-)introduced broadly in 1976, possibly even from late 1975, to coincide with Rover's second &quot;Royal&quot; period.<br><br>The less common industrial yellow seen mostly on the early model HD25 was very similar to Cat Yellow or John Deere Construction Yellow. I presume Rover would have likely purchased a widely available construction yellow paint at the time. <br><br>I have written to MTD but they seem to have lost all of the history. Apparently when they took over Rover they dumped everything prior to that time. It seems they are regretting that now as they are interested in the history of their own mowers and are relying on the public to tell them. It would be good to get a handle on the different colours used in different eras. It does seem the &quot;Rover red&quot; did not appear early on, unless there are examples that I am not aware of.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 19 May 2025 21:53:24 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>vint_mow</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121501.html#Post121501</guid>
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			<title>Trim/cut deck height on Honda HUT216 - terrible idea or feasible?</title>
			<link>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121499.html#Post121499</link>
			<description><![CDATA[I replaced the wheels on one of these last week, took me hours I had to cut the wheels off with a holesaw then I had to cut along the axle so I could cut one side off the bearing and another cut along the axle at 90 degrees to the first cut so I could get the bearings off the shaft. Obviously Honda machine the axles with too little clearance and the slightest bit of rust and they are a permanent fixture. I have had the occasional wheel rusted on on other mowers that have been in the rain for a long time but never like this<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 19 May 2025 05:20:06 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>NormK</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121499.html#Post121499</guid>
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